30/01/2025
20:03
Badagoni
The Winter 2025 issue of the renowned publication Gilbert& Gaillard includes an article on the Badagoni winery and its founder, Giorgi Salakaia.
In an extensive article dedicated to the rich heritage of the Georgian winemaking, renowned sommelier and wine journalist Julia Scavo refers to Badagoni as "a leading light in Georgia’s modern wine history." The Winter 2025 issue of Gilbert & Gaillard, a prominent French wine publication, reviews Badagoni's history, achievements, and the uniqueness of its wines.
,,Giorgi Salakaia, a child of Soviet-ruled Georgia, has always dreamt of making his free, tradition-rich country a talking point. His aspirations as a winemaking entrepreneur materialised in 2006 when he founded his estate in the flagship region of Kakheti, in Zemo Khodasheni. Badagoni was built from the ground up, based on a desire for excellence.
Pioneering cutting-edge winemaking in Georgia, in collaboration with the Italian institute Enosis Meraviglia and its head winemaker Dr Donato Lanati, Salakaia works at the winery with the talented winemaker Sandro Kumsiashvili.
Together, they produce 13 million bottles of high quality wines. Delivering on the promise of excellence - promoted by continuous research - and despite the property's significant 500-hectare footprint, of which 400 have been planted - head viticulturist Shorena Bochorishvili cares for each locality as if it were an estate in its own right. Having honed his knowledge of the clay or limestone soils, their high alluvium content and pH level leaning towards alkaline, Bochorishvili has adapted vine plantings to suit each zone. The vibrancy and aromatics in the north due to the effects of elevation; the generous south with its Mediterranean feel and alluvium; the cast with its mild sunshine for the sweet wines; and the woodland-sheltered west yielding freshness and biodiversity.
Although each single vineyard is destined to produce sophisticated blends, the high-end offerings Traditions d'Alaverdi' come from the historic terroir near the Alaverdi Monastery. Like a lot of Kakheti wineries, Badagoni focuses 60% of its wines on red from Saperavi. The balance is made up of white wines, primarily from Rkatsiteli, but also other wines from Kakhuri, Mtsvane and Kisi. The Mukuzani and Tsinandali areas are treated individually and here, tradition is entwined with a touch of modernity. Alongside the wines fermented in the European style, in French or American barrels, honouring Georgia's rich heritage implies fermenting the wines traditionally in Qvevri, in the historic cellars of the 11th century Alaverdi monastery. This cultural treasure was restored by Badagoni in 2006.
The influence of Italian consultancy can be seen in the Charmat method sparkling wines produced by Badagoni. It was the first producer to use Mtsvane from Kakheti for the Brut. A traditional method sparkling wine is also poised to exit the company's cellars.
Although it does not subscribe to any particular endorsement, Badagoni is mindful of the environment and responsible techniques, and leans towards more sustainable methods of winemaking.
Ultimately, Badagoni's aim is to promote traditional Georgian winemaking which is why it created the Georgian Qvevri School Academy in Ikal- to (Kakheti). It is the first institution of its kind where the wines are not referred to as orange but Qvevri. Its purpose is to grow awareness of these glistening, amber-hued wines with their aromas of candied stone fruits, smoke and wax nuances, hinting at a world of richness yet often reined in by some real tension with a trace of sourness due to the influence of the tannins. A case in point is the Khikhvi Qvevri which contrasts with the style of ample reds displaying true robustness beneath the velvety softness of the candied, spicy fruit, such as the Saperavi Réserve,'' - the article reads.
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30/01/2025